Triumph Stag User Guide
To open the bonnet, pull the release handle which is located in the passenger footwell below the dashboard but above the parcel shelf
One of the most important pre-driving checks is the checking of the engine water level. To do this with an engine that is cold (i.e. not been run since the previous evening) remove the expansion bottle cap by pushing down and twisting anti-clockwise. The level should be half way up the bottle. If it is too low, top up as necessary and replace the bottle cap.
Next, check the radiator level by removing the top bung and fill to the top as required
To check the Stag's engine oil level, remove the dipstick which is located on the driver's side of the engine. In the opening between the cylinder head and exhaust manifold.
The level should be between the two lines on the dipstick. A helpful note is from minimum to maximum is 500ml
To top the oil up, remove the oil filler cap and top us as required. We recommend using good quality 20w50 mineral oil
To check the dashpot oil level, remove the dashpot top by unscrewing it. Top up the level using engine oil until the level reaches the lower parts of the thread (see picture). Repeat this to the other dashpot.
The brake fluid held in the brake master cylinder. To check the level, remove the top. Inside you will see a weir. the level must be slightly above this. Top up as required with Dot 4 Brake Fluid
The power steering fluid is held in the resevoir located on the front of the engine near the battery. To check the fluid level, remove the cap. You will notice the cap is also a dipstick with clear Hot and Cold markings etched on to it. Top up if required with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Dexron II).
The windscreen washer fluid is held in a bottle attached to a bracket on the turret on the driver's side of the engine bay. Remove the cap by unscrewing it and fill the bottle with a diluted screen wash mixture.
The clutch fluid is held in a reservoir next to the brake master cylinder. To check the level, unscrew the cap and inspect the level. The fluid should be close to the top. Top up if necessary with Dot 4 Brake Fluid.
If for any reason you plan not to use the car for a reasonable amount of time, you should remove the negative terminal of the battery to stop the possibility of the power being drained. Using a 14mm spanner, undo the nut a few turns until loose, then wriggle the clamp off the battery terminal and place in front of the battery
To correctly start a Stag from cold you may need to use the choke. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and hold. Now pull the choke out fully and rotate 1/4 of a turn. Release the accelerator pedal. Now start the engine as per normal. Once the engine has started you will notice the revs are high. Twist the choke knob back the opposite way 1/4 of a turn then push in halfway. Now the engine will be a driveable speed.
If, when you are out driving the car seems to loose power and then finally stops, here are a few helpful pieces to look out for:-
The most common and likely scenario is the engine is not getting fuel, this can be caused mainly be two things. The first is the fuel inertia switch. This is located in the engine bay on the passenger's side, in the corner by the windscreen wiper motor.
With the ignition on, pull the top piece up and twist it anti-clockwise, then push and pull it up and down to clean the internal contacts. If this is at fault, you should now see fuel running through the fuel filter located the other side if the windscreen wiper motor.
The second fault may be with the fuel pump.
To gain access to the pump, open the boot and remove the interior panel on the driver's side. You now see the pump. With the ignition turned on and using the wheel brace, tap the pump repeatedly. The pump should now start ticking which means it is pumping again.
If after a long run you come to a junction and the engine cuts out and will not restart, it is the symptom of a piston sticking up in the top part of the carburettor assembly.
The solution is a simple fix. Open the bonnet, unscrew each of the tops of the dashpots and push the damper inside down. You will discover one or both at fault by hearing the piston drop to its seat with a metallic click.
Once you hear this, screw the tops back into place and the engine will restart as normal.
To lower the fabric hood:
Pull lever on passenger side at cubby (1)
To release the rear of the hood, now unzip the rear window while the fabric is loose. (2)
Raise rear section of hood avoiding material being trapped (3) between metal bars and engage clips on both frame sides (4) to lock the rear frame. This is VITAL to make it easier to raise the hood later.
Release levers over sun visors (5)
Raise hood stowage cover, this may require another pull on the chrome lever by the cubby panel (1)
Move hood frame backwards into hood stowage area (7)
Be careful not to force the frame as it is very easy to bend the bars. Push from the centre of the frame (much easier with a helper)
The Velcro will uncouple as the frame moves (8)
Keep pushing the hood material rearwards as it stows away. Check to make sure the frame does not get caught on the cubby panel framework.
Close the stowage cover with a firm push down (10)
To raise the hood:
Pull the release lever then ensure the lever is fully pushed back home (1)
Then, very carefully from the centre, lift the frame (11)
Out of its compartment. Be aware it is very easy to bend and break the bars. (12)
Check that the fabric sits on the outside of the ‘B’ Post outer cover (13)
Align and engage the front hood locking levers over the sun visors (5)
Close the hood stowage cover (10)
Raise the rear section locking catches at each side (14)
If you previously unzipped the plastic window, re-zip it now while the tension is off the fabric or damage will occur. (15)
Check the rear centre pin is correctly aligned into the stowage cover (15)
Firmly slam the rear rail to lock and tension the hood fabric